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Facelift (96 - )Dash PCB Conversion Instructions - Version 2(Subject to Amendment)

The Kit Consists Of:

  • 3 Handmade PCB's OR 4 if you have the Red Line PCB Setup

Tool Required:

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Craft Knife/Dremel
  • Thin Nose Pliars

The Guide has been split into 2 sections

  • Removal Of Dashboard Trim & Gauge Unit
  • Fitting Of PCB's

So if you know already how to remove the trim, you can jump into Section 2. By Clicking here

Although the pictures show pre-facelift dash, the principle is the same.


Section 1

Removal of Dashboard - Step By Step

Important Notice : If you have an airbag installed on your car make sure you disconnect the battery before you start, if you need to move the car or move the gear shifter then make sure you plug in the very top section - before you switch on the ignition, otherwise the airbag warning light will stay on permanently.

These Pictures as taken from an Auto Supra, the same applies to all Supra's - Pre and Post Facelift.


  • Philips Screwdriver
Step 1
    • Remove the cigarette ashtray from the center console. This is just a case of flipping up the lid and then pulling it upwards.
Step 2
  • Starting from behind the ashtray, gently prize up the surround of the automatic gear shifter.
    There are no screws so this is a very easy task
Step 3
  • Lift the surround over the gear shifter and place to one side.
Step 4
  • Remove the 5 screws from the top section and pull out gently.
Step 5
  • Disconnect the 3 plugs, 2 on the left (1 black & 1 white)
  • And 1 from the right (white).

Step 6
  • To the right of the fuel gauge you will need to remove 2 more screws.
Step 7
  • The left hand part of the dashboard (stereo and air con area, is clipped into the surround just like the gear shifter surround in part 2, so gently pull, starting from the bottom,
    the dash from the surround until it's finally away.

You will probably need to move your gear shifter at this point to get the bottom of the dashboard out far enough to get all the connections behind out.

Step 8
  • You will need to disconnect 4 plugs from this section
    1 x Clock (black), 2 x air con/heater (orange), 1 x cigarette lighter (clear) - Also any other plugs if you have heated seats, Trac/Slip Control or an Active Spoiler
Step 9
  • To remove the remaining parts of the dashboard remove the right hand panel first in the same way that you removed the left hand section
  • Once this is done, you can remove the 4 screws holding the gauge unit in, and disconnect the 2 or 3 (depending if manual or auto) multiplugs from the back.

Section 2

Fitting of PCB's

Now that the unit has been removed...

  • Remove the clear and black plastic trim


  • Remove all the screws circled in red.
  • Remove the guages


  • With a dremel or craft knife, remove the Tabs circled in red


  • With a dremel or craft knife, remove the Tabs circled in red


  • Speedo PCB
  • Speedo Unit

  • And fit the PCB around the unit.
  • Refit the Speedo to the Case


  • Tacho PCB
  • Tacho Unit
  • Fit the PCB around the unit

And refit the Tacho to the Case

Temperature, Fuel & Turbo

  • Temperature, Fuel & Turbo PCB


  • Temperature, Fuel & Turbo Unit
  • And fit the PCB to the Unit
  • Fit to the case


With all the dials fitted back to the Case you should end up with this

On the back of the case, feed the wires though the holes for the bulb holders, and you can attach the wires in one of two ways.

  • Solder the wires dirctly to the Green Circuit
  • Solder the wires to the bulb holders.

The picture shows yellow marks, which incicate the Positive power feed


Once all together, and power is applied, should look alot like this!


Tacho Red Line Facility


If you have the "Red Line" version, you need to make some addidional connections. On the Control PCB, there are 4 terminals with no wires connected to them. They are marked

  • +12 (Power supply for PCB's)
  • GND (Ground)
  • Tacho (Tacho feed from the car for the red line function)
  • Dash (Side/Dash Lights feed for Control PCB)

The Point at which the Red Line triggers, is adjusted via the Potentiometer as labled the picture

On the green PCB on the rear of the dash unit, the tacho (middle dial)is held in with 3 screws (the picture shows the screws removed) This is marked

  • IG+ (Power supply for dial)
  • IG- (Tacho signal from engine/ecu)
  • G (Ground)


Take 3 lengths of wire (I suggest someting along the same length as the wires that connect the Dash Light PCB to the Control PCB) and put a ring terminal on the end of each, remove (if not already removed) the 3 screws from the back of the dial. Put each screw through 1 ring terminal and re-fit the screws.

Take the wire that is connected to IG+ on the back of the dash unit, and connect it to +12 on the control PCB. Repeat this for the following connections:

  • IG- Connected to to Tacho
  • G Connected to GND

This will leave you with one connection to make on the control PCB - "Dash" The easiest way to connect this is to solder one of the metal tabs onto one end.

  • Take on of the existig bulb holders and remove the bulb
  • Remove the matal tabs with a pair of thin-nosed pliars
  • Solder a lenth of wire to the tab

Feed the wire through any of the holes in the back of the dash unit, and place the metal tab back into the bulb holder - double check with the second photo to check polarity.

Finally, connect the wire to the "Dash" terminal on the Control PCB

Job Done.

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If you have any problems, please to not hesitate to Email Me! and I will try to resolve the problem!

© InternetWork 2011 V2



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